Sea Birding Pelagic Trips South Africa, Cape Town Pelagics


Trip Report - Prince Edward and the Pack Ice Pelagic trip 2002

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The main targets of the trip were the Prince Edward Islands, where the three restricted-range species (Crozet Shags, Kerguelen Terns and Lesser Sheathbills) were seen, and the Antarctic pack-ice, where all three Antarctic penguins were seen, including the sought-after Emperor Penguin. The trip list boasted eight species of penguins and 10 albatrosses. The trip contributed novel information on the distribution of seabirds, especially south of the Prince Edward Islands. Surprising observations were the large numbers of Chinstrap Penguins around the edge of the pack-ice, and the small numbers of Atlantic Petrels seen from 44-40 S on the return leg to Cape Town. We hope to publish identification articles on prions and diving petrels based on the field experience gathered on this trip.

  Daily Log

Friday, 1 November - The ship sailed from Berth 500 in Cape Town harbour at 15h30, after a short delay to try to convince immigration officials to allow a passenger aboard who had lost his passport two days previously. The ship left harbour pushed along by a stiff blow from the 'Cape doctor' (the south-east wind), and accompanied by a small pod of Dusky Dolphins. Passengers spent the afternoon unpacking and familiarising themselves with the layout of the ship. Birding highlights included the usual coastal birds (African Penguins, Cape Gannets, Cape Cormorants, Swift Terns) as well as Sabine's Gulls, Arctic Skuas and the first true pelagics (Shy and Yellow-nosed Albatrosses, White-chinned Petrels, Sooty Shearwaters). Dusk found us rounding Cape Point on a lovely calm evening.

Saturday, 2 November -Dawn broke 38 miles south of Cape Agulhas, still in the shallow coastal waters of the Agulhas Bank. The coastal nature of the waters was given away by the continued presence of Cape Gannets around the ship, but there were several new species including Black-browed Albatrosses, Northern Giant Petrels, Pintado (Cape) Petrels, Great Shearwaters, and Subantarctic and Pomarine Skuas. A surprise was a couple of Southern Fulmars well north of their usual range, greeted with joy by many of the southern African regional listers aboard. Other highlights were groups of Risso's Dolphins and Humpbacked Whales. The morning birding was interrupted by a life-boat drill, which saw everyone mustering promptly (most were already on deck with their life jackets and cold weather clothing well in advance of the drill) and filing safely into and out of the lifeboats.

Shortly after noon we started to drop off the edge of the continental shelf, and made a slight detour to pass close by a trawler fishing for hake. Here the dominant albatross was Indian Yellow-nosed, but there was a smattering of Atlantic Yellow-noseds too, as well as Southern Giant Petrels, a single Great-winged Petrel, and Wilson's and Black-bellied Storm Petrels. We caused a stir on the bridge by stopping the ship to investigate a dark-headed albatross that was probably a young Salvin's Albatross. Rodney Cassidy was especially pleased to see a couple of Manx Shearwaters, which were a long-standing bogey bird for him. After leaving the shelf edge, we entered the warm water of the Agulhas Current. The numbers of birds dropped off, but there were numerous Great-winged Petrels, one Long-tailed Skua as well as Sperm and Southern Bottle-nosed Whales and large numbers of sunfish and flying fish.

Sunday, 3 November - At dawn we were already 400 miles from Cape Town, but still had 760 miles to go to the Prince Edward Islands. Having crossed the Agulhas Current, we were steaming through the large area of mixed water between the Agulhas and the Return Agulhas Current, which forms the northern border of the Subtropical Front south of Africa. Here we had our first Wandering Albatrosses and Little Shearwaters. The early risers were rewarded with the first White-headed Petrel, and a little later a Grey Petrel joined the wake for a while. After breakfast, a very obliging Antarctic Prion visited the stern, allowing everyone to start to get to grips with this complex group. Later in the day we added Salvin's Prion to the list, although this required some digital wizardry to confirm the identification. Another first for the day was a Sooty Albatross, numerous Soft-plumaged Petrels, and the late afternoon yielded more White-headed Petrels for those who missed the early morning showing.

Monday, 4 November - Our first Southern Ocean gale, surprisingly from the south-east (not the prevailing westerlies that would be expected in these waters), slowed us to a paltry 6 knots. The wind, gusting up to 50 knots, soon generated towering swells, sending water crashing over the main deck and confined most birders to the hanger, their bunks, or enjoying the spectacular, if daunting, view from the bridge. The bird highlight was an adult Southern Royal Albatross that joined the ship in the late afternoon, along with the more numerous Wanderers.

Tuesday, 5 November - The morning found us still beating into a strong south-east headwind, but the wind moderated through the day, and by evening we were getting up to 10 knots. However, the damage had been done, and our arrival off Marion had moved back from early to late Wednesday. New birds for the day included Grey-headed Albatrosses, Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, Blue Petrels and a single, distant Kerguelen Petrel. The hardened bunch on the monkey island reported an Antarctic Fur Seal and several Sub-antarctic Fur Seals. Late afternoon also saw a few diving petrels, sparking a long-standing debate on the field identification of these notoriously tricky birds. 5 November is an auspicious day: Guy Fawkes, the day when the Great Shearwaters return to Gough to lay their eggs and, as Baz Watkins reminded us, Lester Piggott's birthday. It's also Sue John's birthday, and she was surprised by a brace of huge cream-cakes in the lounge after dinner. This sparked the first real evidence of party spirit amongst the passengers - up until then it was only the five guides and the barman in the pub each evening…

Wednesday, 6 November - The day started superbly, with sunny skies and a following breeze pushing us towards the islands. The photographers had a field day, with very obliging Wandering, Grey-headed, Indian Yellow-nosed, Sooty and Light-mantled albatrosses in the wake. Up at the bow, Fairy Prions were making a regular appearance among the more abundant Salvin's, and there were also several diving petrels and some rather elusive Grey-backed Storm Petrels. The weather gradually deteriorated through the morning, and by the afternoon it was wet and wild, with a gale-force north-wester chasing us along. Most people spent the afternoon watching a Grey-backed Storm Petrel criss-cross the wake from the shelter of the hanger. Captain Tate pushed the pace to get us to Marion in daylight to see if we could offload Wilna Wilkinson and the supplies for the base, but when we finally arrived we were greeted by gusting northerly willy-waws, so we steamed off round East Cape into the limited lee off Bullard Beach. The islands were shrouded in low cloud, and Marion only appeared from the murk when we were right off the base. A few King Penguins and Crozet Shags were seen next to the ship, and there were distant views of the other penguins and sheathbills along the shore. At the evening meeting, we planned to steam overnight to be off Prince Edward at first light, and do some spotlighting there, given the much greater densities of burrow-nesting seabirds. However, thanks to a thoughful intervention by Neil Bostock, this was promptly changed to keep us at Marion overnight, given the greater chances of getting the Kerguelen Tern in the sheltered bays off the eastern coast of the island. We thus spent a pleasant night gently steaming up and down in the lee off the coast between East Cape and Kildalkey.

Thursday, 7 November - Birding began with first light at 3h30. It was damp, with intermittent rain, but at least the wind has dropped. We steamed around East Cape and proceeded to work slowly along the shoreline between Archway King Penguin colony and the base. Almost immediately we were treated to a large pod of Killer Whales moving sedately through the calm water. Given the clarity of the water, they were easily visibly even when underwater, and caused great excitement when one surfaced metres from the helideck. On the other side of the ship, all scopes were trained on the shore, where tolerable views were obtained of the four penguin species, Lesser Sheathbills and Southern Elephant Seals. We also had increasingly good views of Kerguelen Terns feeding on the Macrocystis kelp beds that fringe the island, culminating in several birds within 50 m of the ship. There were also good looks at Crozet Shags (some of which appeared keen to land on the ship) and Kelp Gulls feeding among the Macrocystis, as well as good looks at King and Gentoo Penguins in the water next to the ship. There were also many diving petrels right next to the ship - mostly very dark birds feeding close inshore that were almost certainly Commons. Chief Officer Dave Hall was extremely patient in steering us backwards and forwards along this stretch of coast, allowing the best possible views given the constraint of not being allowed ashore.

At 8h00, we stationed off the base to offload Wilna and her equipment. By this stage, the wind had returned, and the small boat operations were conducted in less than ideal conditions. However, by 9h30 everything was transferred, and we steamed for Prince Edward, 20 km to the north. Arriving off Cave Bay, Captain Kevin Tate expertly backed the ship into the bay to allow us sheltered viewing from the hanger of the Macaroni and Rockhopper Penguin colonies on RSA Point, as well as more distant views of young Sub-antarctic Fur Seals frolicking on the grassy slopes of the bay. As we were leaving Cave Bay to circumnavigate Prince Edward, three Antarctic Terns flew past, but didn't linger. We headed counter-clockwise around the north side of the island, pausing off Albatross Valley, where more than 10 000 pairs of albatrosses of five species breed, including the highest density of Wandering Albatrosses in the world. In November, the cliff-side galleries of mollymawks and sooty albatrosses were packed with birds, but the flats where the Wanderers breed were less impressive, because they were mostly populated by large chicks, whose dark plumage was hard to spot against the vegetation in the grey, overcast conditions.

While at station off Albatross Valley, we had large numbers of birds around the ship, including some nice Grey-backed Storm Petrels. Accordingly, the decision was made to chum there, in the relative shelter of the island. This wasn't as successful as it might have been, because of the large numbers of giant petrels that were attracted to the ship and displaced most other birds. However, we did have more excellent views of the storm petrel, and shortly afterwards had another group of Killer Whales, one of which breached completely out of the water. The low cloud base obscured the tops of Ross Rocks and Ship Rock, the two main stacks off the north-west of Prince Edward, but they were impressive nonetheless and created a dramatic scene with Wandering Albatrosses drifting past their stark outlines. Heading on round the western point of the island the ship rolled heavily as it turned across the swell, tossing passengers around the helideck in an alarming fashion; fortunately no-one was seriously hurt. Due to the large swell, we had to tack on our return to Marion, but still arrived off the east coast in good time to visit Kildalkey, the largest penguin colony on the island. Here almost a million King and Macaroni Penguins breed on the slopes of Green Hill, and a line of scopes was accordingly stretched across the helideck. Adjacent to the colony we also saw several nice bull Sub-antarctic Fur Seals, and there were a few obliging groups of Macaroni Penguins in the water next to the ship.

We steamed away from the island at 17h30, with only a few people staying on deck to watch the sheer cliffs of Crawford Bay disappear into the murk. The weather hadn't been ideal, but overall we were lucky to have exploited the early morning break in the wind, and on balance we did well and saw all the target birds.

Friday, 8 November - This morning found us steaming through cold water 100 miles south-west of Marion Island, en route for the nearest pack-ice at around 54S 25E. With the islands behind us, much time was spent poring over the satellite ice-images, and plotting the best strategy. We were now embarking on the unknown part of the trip - no-one had any idea what birds we would find when we reached the ice, adding to the sense of excitement. Meanwhile on deck there was relatively little new to report. The density of birds was considerably lower that that found north of the islands, with Southern Fulmars, White-headed and Blue Petrels, and a mix of Salvin's, Antarctic and Fairy Prions predominating. The following flock comprised Grey-headed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, as well as a few die-hard White-chinned Petrels. Some excitement was provided by increasing numbers of Kerguelen Petrels, as well as many tantalising diving petrels that showed some of the purported characters of South Georgians (whiter underwings, paler faces and breasts, and on a few birds, pale tips to the scapulars). The monkey islanders also reported another Southern Bottle-nosed Whale. But the real highlight was the sighting of the first ice-berg at 15h12 (although not everyone bothered to go look at it!) This resulted in Eddie Slack winning the ice-berg sweepstake, and he very generously donated his winnings to further support albatross conservation. Part of the proceeds will go to BirdLife's seabird conservation campaign, and part to sponsor a Wandering Albatross in the long-term tracking study being conducted on Marion Island. By evening, the wind was getting up, and the ship's speed was dropping…

Saturday, 9 November - A black day on the trip. The ship was struggling into gale force headwinds, making very little headway. Despondency ruled. Would we reach the pack-ice? Should we give up and head for Cape Town? This pessimism wasn't helped by the sea temperature increasing to over 6C, suggesting that we'd re-crossed the Antarctic Polar Front. The birds also had little to offer, with merely a subset of the previous day's offerings. Only the large number of Kerguelen Petrels offered the slimmest glimmers of joy…

Sunday, 10 November - Mercifully, the wind dropped overnight, and we started to make good speed. The ice looked possible again, and spirits lifted. The early risers were rewarded with a stunning Antarctic Petrel shortly after 6h30, which made for an amusing breakfast. Later in the morning we had some nice Slender-billed Prions and a stunning white-phase Southern Giant Petrel. Finally, just before lunch, a second Antarctic Petrel put in an appearance, bringing relief to the many early morning dippers. During the afternoon, a couple of huge ice-bergs appeared on the horizon, with one dead ahead. It looked fairly close, but the radar told a different story - it was actually 19 miles away! As we approached it, we started to encounter small groups of Chinstrap Penguins, and then when it was only a few miles off the first Snow Petrels of the trip appeared like ethereal ghosts over the stern. We duly reached the berg - a stunning 400 m-long, 80-m high edifice with some 1200 Chinstrap Penguins roosting along its lower flanks, and hundreds more in the water around the berg. Drifting just off the berg, with Snow and Antarctic Petrels soaring overhead and curious Chinstrap Penguins approaching the vessel to investigate this strange red object in their monochrome world will surely be a lasting memory for all of us [53 53S, 25 36E]. After a largely euphoric supper, we steamed on towards the pack ice, and shortly before 20h00, in the gentle evening light, hit the first band of drift ice.

Monday, 11 November - A magical, still morning awaited those brave souls that rose before 3h00 to find the ship steaming through bands of drift ice interspersed by smoky patches of semi-frozen, glassy sea. With only a glimmer of a golden dawn on the south-eastern horizon, the ship's path was illuminated by its forward spotlight, which cast a warm glow over the otherwise frigid landscape. Such poetic thoughts were lost on my cabin mates. When I told them I had never seen anything like it, I was brusquely advised to get out more! Heathens aside, by 4h00 the deck was crowded with people who seemed largely indifferent to the -4C temperature. Everyone was scanning the floes for an XXL penguin among the many Chinstraps. Bird diversity was low, but the quality was high, with large numbers of Snow and Antarctic Petrels, smaller numbers of Arctic Terns and a single Southern Giant Petrel that stayed with the ship on and off throughout the day.

As we continued south-west, the ice got thicker, and patches of open water less common. With nothing new to report in more than three hours steaming, there was the usual stampede for early breakfast. As a result, the decks were nearly deserted when Peter Kaestner came slipping and sliding from the bow all the way to the helideck to report a possible 'large penguin' standing on a distant ice floe. Ian and I had a quick look, and immediately recognised the unforgettable, portly posture of an Emperor. There were some loud shouts of joy (which may have contributed to its taking to the water), then Ian ran for the saloon while I headed for the bridge. Consequently I missed the fun of seeing 60 people trampling stewards in their haste to get back on deck. When we finally went down for breakfast it was like a scene from the Marie Celeste, with half-eaten meals abandoned on the tables.

It took a few minutes, but eventually the beast re-appeared, feeding in a patch of open water. The captain expertly manoeuvred us to a point from which everyone could get good looks. It was a young bird, and appeared to be taking numerous small prey (possibly krill) from the water surface - hardly an impressive display from the avian world's greatest diving machine, but interesting nonetheless. It would occasionally make a surging dive, only to re-surface within 20-30 m. At once stage it came up within 50 m of the ship's bridge. Finally, after showing well for more than 10 minutes, it dived and didn't re-appear.

With the pressure off, we had some fun pushing a group of hapless Chinstraps off their growler, and enjoyed an amorous pair of Crabeater Seals. There were also several sightings of Minke Whales, including one very obliging Antarctic Minke that swam slowly along the port side of the ship, clearly visible through the calm water. Heading still further into the thick pack, we encountered a few Adelie Penguins, including one obliging pair of immature birds that allowed very close approach by the ship. They did look a little disconcerted, however, when the ship made a tight circuit right around them. Lunch was taken on the helideck, and while nibbling on a delicious curry pie the unmistakable, sinuous shape of a Leopard Seal was spotted on a nearby floe. This proved to be the last sighting of the day, and with the weather closing in we steamed west through the ice before having an unforgettable celebratory braai (barbeque to the uninitiated) in the snow and ice, with Snow and Antarctic Petrels overhead.

Tuesday, 12 November - Having cleaned up in the ice, we steamed north at midnight, and dawn found us back in Antarctic water, beating into another gale-force headwind. The winds peaked at around 60 knots during the middle of the day, slowing our progress to a crawl. As the wind backed into the west during the evening, the large swell obliged us to follow, causing some passengers to think we were off to South America. Most people spent a relaxing day recuperating from last night's party, but a few hardy monkey islanders were rewarded with a fine Fin Whale and a Strap-toothed Whale well south of its known range. The evening was enlivened by Chris Lodge's birthday cake and celebrations.

Wednesday, 13 November - The wind started to moderate, and our ETA Cape Town shot back from Sunday 24th to our target of Sunday 17th. Another fairly quiet day, with most people relaxing in the lounge, sleeping, or spending the odd hour on deck. No new birds were seen, and even the cetacean spotters went unrewarded.

Thursday, 14 November - Cracking along, all looked set for a speedy return to Cape Town. We crossed the Antarctic Polar Front during the day, but with little noticeable effect on the birds. If anything, bird numbers appeared to be lower here than farther east; only the numbers of Black-browed Albatrosses were up. The afternoon was enlivened by some robust debate about an immature Royal Albatross which obligingly stayed with the ship for several hours. Despite contradictory claims as to whether it had a black cutting edge to the bill, this was later confirmed thanks to the wonders of Angus Wilson's digital camera and Dick Newell's laptop. The consensus was that it was a young Southern Royal, due to its white marks on the elbow, strong white leading edge to the wing and limited carpal patch on the underwing (which didn't reach the wrist). However, this was swept aside by a late Atlantic Petrel, which whipped past the ship shortly before supper. At nearly 46S this was well outside its usual range. The evening lecture was replaced by a fun quiz (enjoyed perhaps more by the quiz master than the participants) - congratulations to 'The Enlisters' for pipping several more fancied teams to the post - although this English Nature team probably had more than a bit of help from their South African ringer, Paul Funston.

Friday, 15 November - Another crazy day. Yet another front brought gale force north-westerlies to slow our progress, causing the captain to amend our ETA to early Monday morning. This triggered a frenzy of air ticket re-arrangements, communicating by satellite phone with the Birding Africa office back in Cape Town. The weather slowly improved through the day, with the first really pleasant temperatures on deck since before Marion Island, although the sea temperature remained around 11C. The birds remained a mix of sub-Antarctic and south temperate species, with the first Shy Albatross, Great-winged Petrels and Great Shearwater for many days sharing airspace with reasonable numbers of Grey-headed Albatrosses and Blue Petrels. Last gasp birds included a Kerguelen Petrel and a single diving petrel. Yesterday's Southern Royal Albatross remained around, and was joined in the wake by some very obliging Grey Petrels. Atlantic Petrel fever was in the air, with numerous scares through the day, culminating in a convincing dark-morph Long-tailed Skua which looked the part (other than its gull-like flight) as it approached the ship from the stern. John Gale added to the fun by painting a cardboard cut-out Atlantic which was 'flown' across the back of the helideck on a stick from the poop deck below. The only entirely new bird for the day was a single Red (Grey) Phalarope seen from the monkey island.

In the evening, we had the trip awards ceremony for outstanding achievement aboard ship. The winners were:

- Table tennis champion - John Gregory
- Darts champion (most improved beginner) - Teta Kain
- Board game champion - Howard Rayner
- Best cabin spirit - Cabin 13, the dysfunctional family (Pete Fraser, Elaine Cook, Chris Lodge and Giselle Murison).
- Bad hair day - John Wells
- Best dressed bank robber - Frank Lambert
- Extremities most in need of protection - Rodney Cassidy
- Luckiest lips - Lyn Mair
- Largest bar bill - Hugh Buck
- Best dressed for dinner - Maureen Pelecier
- Worst dressed for dinner - Duncan Macdonald
- Most spectacular fall - Neil Bostock (with honourable mentions to Janet Warwick, John Gale and Dick Newell)
- Best sighting - Peter Kaestner for the Emperor Penguin
- Most single-minded passenger - Dick Newell
- Hi-tech contribution to the trip - Angus Wilson
- Most time on deck - Chris Collins
- Best talk - John Gale

We also gave a small token of appreciation to the captain and officers of the ship, and then adjourned to the bar to celebrate Graeme Wallace (today) and Mick Fiszer's (tomorrow) birthdays with cake and a few (too many?) drinks.

Saturday, 16 November - Overnight we crossed the Subtropical Front in two large jumps - from 11-15C at 20h00 and from 15-20C at 5h00. Both fronts were crossed in the dark, so we couldn't tell whether they supported large aggregations of birds. Today was spent in warm water (20-22C), with relatively small numbers of birds. Undoubtedly the highlight of the day was the regular passage of Atlantic Petrels during the morning, with at least 10 sightings between 6h30 and noon. How many birds were involved is not entirely clear, but it appeared to be several individuals, suggesting that they may be more common this far east than was thought previously. Other interesting birds this far north were a single Grey Petrel early on, reasonable numbers of Sooty Albatrosses and a few White-headed Petrels. After lunch, the temperature rose to 22C, with a few flying fish around, and hopes were high for a White-bellied Storm Petrel or two, but the numerous Fregatta petrels seen were all Black-bellieds. We also finally turned north-east after drifting steadily west of Cape Town for several days. With the gale force SSW wind now on the port beam the speed shot up, raising the possibility of arriving late Sunday. However, this came at the cost of some more large rolls. In the evening Brian Leyds and his merry men laid on a sumptuous land-fall meal, surpassing the usual Saturday evening fare of steak and ice-cream...

Sunday, 17 November - Daylight found us back in the South African EEZ, and thus there was a large turn out of SA listers wanting to bag a few deep-water species for their lists. This was made more attractive by the calm, sunny weather. Bird numbers were initially low in the oceanic water some 120 miles SSW of Cape Point, with Great-winged Petrels predominating. Flocks of up to 25 birds rested on the glassy sea, or glided past languidly - a far cry from our usual experience of these gadfly petrels in the windier conditions that prevailed throughout most of the trip. They were joined by small numbers of Leach's and Black-bellied Storm Petrels, with the former apparently having recently arrived from the northern hemisphere (they were in moult, and thus unlikely to be from the small local breeding population). Other interesting species in the deep water were a couple of Long-tailed Skuas, a flock of phalaropes (presumably Red) and a couple of whales (Dwarf Minke and Humpbacked). Lunch was served in the helihanger as we approached the continental shelf. We deviated slightly east to run over the Cape Point Hole, a deep canyon that runs into the shelf edge where there are usually several fishing vessels to be found (and the area usually targeted by one-day pelagic trips out of Simonstown - for more information about these trips, visit Here we passed through a fleet of hake longliners and tuna pole boats, with a hake trawler on the horizon. Bird numbers increased dramatically, with reasonable numbers of Black-browed and Shy Albatrosses, White-chinned Petrels, Great and Cory's Shearwaters, plus several other less common species and coastal species such as Cape Gannets and Kelp Gulls. We then headed inshore to Kommetjie and the distinctive Slangkop lighthouse, picking up more coastal birds (e.g. African Penguin, Cape Cormorant, Swift Tern), including the first Sandwich Terns of the trip. From Kommetjie we cruised inshore along the scenic peninsula west coast en route to Cape Town, enjoying superb views of the Cape mountains. Those not packing were rewarded with some excellent Humpbacked Whales off Chapman's Peak, as well as small pods of Common and Dusky Dolphins and large flocks of Sabine's Gulls. We reached the harbour at 17h30, joined by a Speckled Pigeon. We docked at 18h00, 6 hours behind schedule but still with enough time for those rash individuals who had booked evening flights to get to the airport.


Many thanks to everyone aboard for making the trip such a pleasant experience. We would especially like to thank the following people for their invaluable contribution to the trip:

Eric Walker, Ian Calvert and Gordon Laing at Smit Pentow Marine, for their assistance with the ship charter and for making this trip possible, Captain Kevin Tate, First Mate David Hall and the ship's crew, for being so tremendously accommodating and for expertly manoeuvring the ship to allow the best birding opportunities for the passengers at all times,Purser Brian Leyds and his dedicated team of stewards for their generous hospitality, All of our guides for their tremendous effort on board, Our logistics manager, Eve Holloway (ably assisted by her husband, Peter) who made sure everything ran smoothly both in the preparation for the trip and at sea.

We are extremely grateful to all the lecture speakers for their contributions, especially among the passengers: Paul Funston, John Gale, Peter Kaestner, Lyn Mair, Tony Marr, Brendan Ryan and Peggy Spiegel.

Callan would particularly like to thank Mark Cohen and Ian Crystal for their valuable advice in the early planning stages of the trip. Thanks also go to Chris and Louise Spengler of Afton Grove Guest House for their assistance with pre and post trip accommodation arrangements and for arranging the pre-trip dinner.

  Checklist of Birds
Map of Cruise Track - Created by Peter Ryan
  Checklist of Mammals